oops.

Yep, oops.

After finishing the framing, then spending an hour or two making sure the new whirlpool tub deck was level, we heaved the beast into the opening, stood back, and examined our work.

It was then that Scott gently asked, 'Maybe I don't see the whole picture here, but what are you going to do about water?'

'What do you mean?'

I had ordered a tub without an apron only because I wanted to build the front paneling myself, like what I did in the back entry. And that meant also building a deck for the tub to rest. Of course, we had no intention of only using this as a bathtub, and so I also ordered a shower faucet for it.

That's where Scott noticed the problem: in the two inches all around the tub that made up the deck (space in this bathroom is tight, so no sprawling tub deck for us). He pictured the water piling up there after every single shower, and he was right. It (obviously) would.

Mother-trucker...

So then... yeah, oops. Well, Home Depot exchanged this tub for the same one, this time with the apron (and lefthand drain). And now we'll have to rip out the deck front framing, as well as do some more creative carpentry - add framing (thankfully only 4") to the inside tub surround walls. It's not the end of the world - just a little setback. But I'm thankful to Scott for noticing before we went any further!

electrical for the bathroom.

One of things that was necessary for this remodel was to wire a couple of new 20A branch circuits: one for the whirlpool motor, and another for, well, just in case (possibly heated flooring, but we haven't committed to installing that just yet so, if not that, potentially just more outlets).

It took an hour or two to snake the two 50' cables from the bathroom, across the house through the basement ceiling, to the electrical service panel (a Federal Pacific split-bus panel). Scott and I had bookmarked the dual-pole, 20A breakers that used to feed some baseboard heaters upstairs, long-since disconnected (it was one of the first things I did when I moved in, seeing how there was a brand-new, gas forced-air furnace for heat).

(We pulled the dual-pole breaker, so the hole is now at top left).

These split-bus panels work in such a way as to provide a few dual-pole, 220V breakers, along with a (in this case, 60A) dual-pole breaker that shuts off the power to everything in the power bus below (lights and outlets, primarily). There exists a '6 Switch Rule' that states - sans a main shutoff breaker for all electrical service - there can be no more than six breakers to flip off in order to kill all the power to the house. So, by adding two single-pole breakers in place of the double-pole, I'm technically violating that rule - and we should wire the new branch circuits off the subpanel (out of frame of that photo above to the left, about two feet away). I may end up installing a new service panel, replacing this old FPE panel (there exists a lot of chatter about the questionable validity of these FPE panels and - more importantly - breakers, but this install seems pretty clean and shows no signs of overheated breakers, etc.). So in the meantime - since we wired the cables to this panel - I'll let it slide. And technically, another of the dual-pole breakers is permanently switched OFF because it also powered more baseboard heaters, also ripped out of the house so the circuit isn't doing any service.

All that said, we discovered that FPE breakers - since they're no longer made - are $50 a pop at ol' Home Depot! Uhh, dang. But K had a brilliant idea... what about Ebay? Sure enough - they're all over Ebay (maybe a sign they're not the greatest breakers), so I ordered two 'thick,' single-pole 20A breakers for the new circuits.

Scott and I had already tied the neutrals and grounds to the neutral bus bar after pulling the cables, so the other night it was an easy job to finish wiring the hot wires to the 'new' breakers and pop them in the panel -

Then test the GFCI outlet we had installed on the new framing at the motor end of the new whirlpool bathtub -

It worked (glowing green light, and of course verified with an electrical cable tester)! So we now have power for the tub, as well as an extra circuit for... something. I'll deal with the panel later.

a vanity.

For the bathroom, we needed a vanity. Duh. Just preferably, not something like this (taken at the cute little inn we stayed at in Bar Harbor, ME earlier this month) -

A great example of the classic, pre-fab, Big Box, MDF veneer, totally cheesy vanity. Yeah, so no - not that. A few years back, I blogged about making stuff, not buying new stuff, and fixing stuff. So with this bathroom remodel, we want to reuse as much as possible. And we knew for the vanity we wanted to find an old dresser, desk, something, and turn it into a vanity. So in looking up ideas, I came across an article that said in order to accomplish that, we would need to hire an expert carpenter and a crafty plumber.

Ok, then - time to find out if I fit the bill...

Well, first - to find a piece of furniture that would work. We scrounged for a few months, looking at various used furniture stores in town, Offerup, even Craiglist, until we came across a nice-looking, mid-century modern credenza at a local used furniture place that looked like it would fit the bill -

It seemed perfect, with the two doors on either side and a large drawer on the bottom that could remain intact, and the two drawers in the middle that I could remove to make room for the sink and plumbing. It also fit the space we had perfectly, at 48" in length, 32" high, and 21" deep. And it was nice, a quality piece of furniture built from solid ash, with superb joinery and craftsmanship. Like any savvy antique hunter, we first did a quick search online, and were surprised to find it being sold for $1700. It was marked $400, but the guy even knocked a hundred bucks off when we mentioned not needing the hutch that was included. Sold!

Time to take it home and get to work...

Also, in keeping with that M.O. I mentioned earlier about reusing, we found a nice, undermount Kohler sink at the local architectural salvage yard for $60 - so I was determined to make it work, even if it meant having to do some creative carpentry...

First things first - size this thing up for real -

Then start cutting. Oh boy, it was such a nice piece of furniture I felt bad taking a jigsaw, and drill, and crow bar to it. Really, really bad. But it had to be done -

Ouch! Now there was no going back... I even loved the classic, flathead screws!

With the holes for the Kohler widespread sink drilled, the back cut out for the plumbing, and the drawers removed along with some of the joinery to make way for the sink - it was time to measure and make the cutout for it.

I'd first drill, then use a jigsaw to make a rough opening -

Of course, since this was an undermount sink, the opening couldn't just be rough - it had to be perfect. Yikes. So for that, I'd use a router and the template from when I built the router table. Well, the corner of the template anyway. Since it wasn't the right size, it meant taping it down and moving it for each corner. All in all, between that and feeling the pressure of needing to make sure the opening was perfect, it took about two hours to accomplish.

Thankfully, it actually turned out as close to perfection as I could have hoped -

Sweet, plumbing openings done. Then it was time to work on refinishing... I did some research and determined that Zar stripper was the one most-often recommended, so I bought a quart of it and got to work. Indeed, it did a miracle job with the existing finish!

(A test scrap - the piece I cutout for the sink - showing the existing finish on the left and the stripped, then sanded, clean ash on the right... )

Dang - stripped down to bare wood and sanded, this piece looked awfully nice...

But I knew I wanted to stain it darker to contrast with the flooring, grey walls, and white tile so... onward! Well, first - a few more instances of creative carpentry were necessary to make the sink fit. I had to gently pry the front top piece off in order to route it to make room for the drain bulge in the sink -

Reattach, countersink some new screws to hold it in place, then test the sink fit -

Boom. Time to stain... I used a mixture of the two gel stains I got (a brown and a red) for the fan base I built a couple of years ago, in this case 3:1 brown to red. And let me just mention, I love staining. Actually, I love putting on the poly after staining. But either way, finishing a beautiful piece of wood or furniture is so rewarding. Sort of like painting a room - instant gratification.

I swear by the Minwax oil-based satin poly, which I used on the door/drawer fronts, and cabinet legs and sides. But for the top - given the fact this is a vanity countertop - I'd need to find something a little more durable, and waterproof. After more research, it sounded like Waterlox was the way to go. So I ordered a quart of that and got to work... again. Three coats of it, for now. Maybe more in time. It'll be a test to see how a wood vanity top will hold up...

The last bit of creative carpentry I had to do was figure out what to do with the drawer fronts. I first considered hinging them, but that seemed like a) it would be challenging (not that I'm up for a challenge - pretty much this entire project of finding and converting a piece of furniture into another piece of furniture has been one, fun challenge!) and b) the hinges would be visible. So, thinking more how we wouldn't access under the sink all that much (there isn't much room), I opted for a simpler option: just use cabinet door magnets.

But first I had to make the false-front doors, which I did by repurposing one of the drawer bottoms from the drawers I tore apart -

I just glued the drawer fronts to that, then drilled holes for the cabinet handle screws and installed them -

As well as attached the magnets inside the cabinet -

Oh, but wait - there's more! I then realized I also needed to route out a section on the inside of the fake drawer fronts for that bulge in the sink drain -

At long last... it was time to attach the sink, faucet, and trap in order to get it ready to intall in the bathroom (oh, there's a complete overhaul of the plumbing needed in the bathroom to re-align the drain and supply lines for this new vanity - yay!). With a combination of silicone and plumber's putty, I had the sink and faucet installed. Then I had to take a hacksaw to the drain that came with the faucet in order to fit the trap in the limited space left where the two drawers once were. But a couple hours later and it... was... finished!

Now granted, this was taken crammed in J's bedroom between his computer desk and bed, but it's really a pretty beautiful piece of furniture now. We'll each get a side door to call our own, and the large drawer can hold extra towels and such. K came up with the brilliant idea to go with a dark grey ceramic tile floor that would contrast beautifully with the warm wood. And I'll be staining the inside shelves and sides to match the vanity for the built-in cabinet I'm designing and will install to the right of the bathtub.

Vanity cabinet - 1960s mid-century modern credenza from local used furniture dealer
Sink - used Kohler sink from local architectural salvage yard
Faucet - used Kohler faucet found on Amazon
Hardware - new from Rejuvenation

Time spent: I have no idea. Weeks. Lots of things learned. Thankfully, few mistakes made (the one glaring one is I centered the holes for the faucet spout and handles - only to realize the spout doesn't sit centered (because of the drain lift rod), so it's shifted back a little from the handles... oh well). But it was totally worth it.

Oh, and K had found a really solid, heavy, HUGE mirror (she's tired of the tiny one I installed in the other bathroom and made sure for this one she gets a big mirror!) at the new Habitat For Humanity store in town, so we bought that for $30 and I refinished it to also match the vanity -

Next... the plumbing overhaul to make this thing be actually, well, usable...